Hi all. Perhaps someone can give some tips on swapping an engine. (Like for like)
I have had a 99 colorado gx since 2003 and quite early in my ownership, head crack symptoms showed but garages failed to diagnose. Last Feb I had an electrical fault whereby the headlights came on by themselves. This caused the car to be laid up for a couple of months til I got round to sorting it. When I cranked it over, it hydrolocked and started. Although roughly. This is when I decided to pull the head, and cylinder 3 showed corrosion and the piston at tdc was about 4mm down!! Bent conrod!! I have bought a rotten 2000 fx colly for the engine but the haynes manual is less than clear when explaining the engine removal. Any tips would be very welcome.
Ps i have another colorado (1997) which cracked the head on a steady long run to Scotland (lots of white smoke on tickover but ran ok. Also temp never rose above normal) so I put a AMC head on and new rad , fan oil , new stat etc AND fitted an engine guard temperature display attached to the head. Under normal round town driving and on short motorway runs DOESN'T get above 80 degc. Has anyone here fitted one of these because the typical Temps for this vehicle( for towing and normal driving )would be very interesting.
Pps I will NEVER run a 1kz te again without an engine guard. Highly recommended
Thanks
Richard
I have had a 99 colorado gx since 2003 and quite early in my ownership, head crack symptoms showed but garages failed to diagnose. Last Feb I had an electrical fault whereby the headlights came on by themselves. This caused the car to be laid up for a couple of months til I got round to sorting it. When I cranked it over, it hydrolocked and started. Although roughly. This is when I decided to pull the head, and cylinder 3 showed corrosion and the piston at tdc was about 4mm down!! Bent conrod!! I have bought a rotten 2000 fx colly for the engine but the haynes manual is less than clear when explaining the engine removal. Any tips would be very welcome.
Ps i have another colorado (1997) which cracked the head on a steady long run to Scotland (lots of white smoke on tickover but ran ok. Also temp never rose above normal) so I put a AMC head on and new rad , fan oil , new stat etc AND fitted an engine guard temperature display attached to the head. Under normal round town driving and on short motorway runs DOESN'T get above 80 degc. Has anyone here fitted one of these because the typical Temps for this vehicle( for towing and normal driving )would be very interesting.
Pps I will NEVER run a 1kz te again without an engine guard. Highly recommended
Thanks
Richard
- Apr 04, 2011.
- Having a cracked block can give a variety of strange symptoms that can be hard to identify and diagnose. Like many problems with your cooling system, a cracked block often can mask itself during normal operation of your vehicle and only reveal itself during certain conditions making it.
The most common areas the cylinder head will crack are on the combustion chamber, and hairline cracks in-between the valves. This is due to a poor water chamber design that cannot withstand the fluctuations in temperatures, and the faster speed limit in the UK when compared to Japan - Which is where the engines were originally designed for. Re: 1KZ Cracked Head I think I have the cracked head too.:cry: Water temp is always been normal and it still is, but yesterday when hot it started to make steam and bubbles when radiator cap is taken off. When cold, everything is normal. It is started poorly some mornings lately (makes smoke and start with 3 cylinder few seconds).
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1kz Te Cylinder Head Crack Symptoms 2
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